A simple walk down the beauty product aisle at the store or browse through an online shop's beauty catalog can be a confusing experience these days. There are hundreds of skincare products with a wide array of chemicals, ingredients, and other elements that can be challenging to pronounce. There are creams for younger skin, acne-prone skin, aging skin, dry skin, men's skin, combination skin, and sensitive skin. Determining which products are best for your specific needs can undoubtedly be challenging.

Television and magazine advertising promote various "acids" in skincare products, which are designed to achieve different results depending on your regimen and skin needs. At Upkeep, we offer an array of facials, some of which contain various acids. Let us review skincare acids often seen on the labels of modern beauty products. Hopefully, this guide will help you better understand how these acids perform and benefit. And how they may or may not help you.

 What are Common Skincare Acids?

On its own, the word acid can foster some pretty scary images. Most people think of bubbling test tubes or a liquid capable of causing burns or disintegrating things. Acids are indeed capable of such things. However, skincare acids are also some of the most beneficial ingredients available for skincare products when used in the proper amounts and concentrations. Acids can fight acne, wrinkles, age spots, dark spots, and uneven skin tone, among various other concerns.

But with so many options, which do you choose?

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is one of the most well-known skincare acids. Salicylic acid, sourced from the bark of willow trees, has been around the market for a long time and is well known as an exfoliator. It also does a great job of clearing pores which can help to reduce the intensity and frequency of acne breakouts.

In low concentrations (.5 and 2 percent), salicylic acid is available in cleansers and serums and spot treatments for acne breakouts.

In higher concentrations, salicylic acid can be used as a peeling agent in med spa procedures to treat acne scars, sun damage, age spots, and melasma. Salicylic acid is related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and offers natural anti-inflammatory properties.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is the most popular alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used in skin care products. Often derived from sugar cane, it has the smallest AHA molecule size. This makes it the most effective at entering the pores. Glycolic acid has developed a reputation for being an excellent "jack of all trades" anti-aging agent. Glycolic acid is effective at exfoliation and reducing fine lines, acne prevention, and evening out skin tone and texture.

Glycolic acid is also used at higher concentrations in professional skin peels. This is sometimes done in conjunction with microneedling or microdermabrasion.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is another alpha-hydroxy acid, derived from bitter almonds. Mandelic acid shares many of the same benefits and uses as glycolic acid, including preventing acne and evening out skin pigmentation. However, mandelic acid has a larger molecule size; thus, it does not penetrate pores in the same way as glycolic acid. Mandelic acid can irritate the skin less than glycolic acid. For this reason, mandelic acid is more commonly used in chemical peels.

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid is the most common water-soluble form of vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is derived from fruits and used in skincare products for its anti-aging effects. It has also been used in treating melasma for those unable to tolerate some of the more traditional treatment approaches.

Vitamin C is vital for skin health as it plays an essential role in collagen synthesis and tissue growth, development, and repair. Some studies have also shown that vitamin C may help to prevent and treat skin damage associated with exposure to ultraviolet light. Vitamin C can be applied topically in ascorbic acid or consumed through diet.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is another skincare acid that is commonly promoted through the media. Hyaluronic acid is a substance that is found naturally in human skin. It helps the skin retain water, which keeps it hydrated and plump. The hyaluronic acid molecule can hold up to one thousand times its weight in water, which is pretty impressive for a little molecule. This acid is usually sourced from soy foods, such as tofu, soy chunks, and soy milk. And citrus fruits, such as lemons, oranges, limes, and grapefruits. Sweet potatoes and leafy greens are also excellent sources of hyaluronic acid.

Just like collagen and elastin, the amount of hyaluronic acid naturally occurring in the body decreases as we age. Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in virtually every anti-aging skincare product, including serums, creams, masks, and peels. It is important to remember that hyaluronic acid does not work well with acids with a low pH, such as glycolic acid, as they tend to cancel each other out.

Which Skincare Acids are Best for You?

Selecting the proper skincare products for your needs can be challenging and confusing. To select the skincare products and ingredients that are best for you, determine your skincare concerns, desires, and actionable goals.  

·       Are you looking to reduce acne?

·       Are you trying to reduce to appearance of fine lines and wrinkles?

·       Do you have age spots or pigmentation issues?

·       Is your skin texture rough, dry, or peeling?

·       Would you like to balance your sebum levels?

If you have acne-prone skin, consider products that contain salicylic acid or glycolic acid. If you have matured or aging skin, search for products with glycolic or ascorbic acid. If you have pigmentation concerns, you may consider looking for products containing glycolic acid.

Despite skincare products' over-the-counter nature, some have unintended side effects if improperly used. Some skincare acids interact with prescription medications or increase your sensitivity to sun and light exposure. Certain products are not recommended for women trying to conceive, pregnant, nursing, or breastfeeding. These are all critical considerations your skincare professional can discuss with you while providing guidance.

Contact Upkeep today for a consultation to learn more about your skin's needs and identify your skincare goals. Our professionals will guide you through creating a personalized routine within your budget that is best for your skin. During your consultation, your professional can also share facials and aesthetic treatments that elevate your skin confidence and support your skincare routine.